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We were really anxious to get to warm, clear water and somewhere with less humidity. The Tuamotus did not disappoint. Unfortunately we experienced a severe mechanical problem here that would have even more impact on our cruise later on. Not wanting to try entering the lagoon at the atoll Manihi without optimum light, we decided to sail out a bit and then slowly head back in during the night. The engine was turning over very slowly as we crept back towards the lagoon entrance. Suddenly the engine stopped. Turns out that the oil pressure sensor developed a crack and all the crankcase oil spurted out, into the the bilge and then pumped overboard. When the oil was all gone, the engine simply froze up. No alarm because of the crack. We let it cool down and started checking out the problem. The only way we found the leak was to re-fill the crankcase and start the engine again, which thankfully it did. Only with the engine running was the little spurts of oil evident. Without oil pressure, no leak. We ended up taking the sensor off and putting a bolt in the hole to seal it off. The engine continued to run until we started out on our passage to Hawaii, but at least we had power to get into the lagoon.
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It's a little heart-pounding the first time up a hoa (pass) into the lagoon of an atoll. The current is outgoing most of the time so it's like heading up a river. You don't have much clearance on either side and can't make too much headway into the current. You also have to keep a sharp eye out for coral reefs and then coral heads as you enter the lagoon. Leaving is the same except you shoot out the hoa into the open ocean and quite often a standing wave.
The water inside the lagoons is incredible. We only visited 2 atolls, Manihi and Rangiroa, on the trip south and stopped in Tikehau on the return trip north. We spent hours snorkeling. This is paradise. Make sure you keep a good watch when crossing the lagoons. Coral heads seem to shoot straight up out from 60+ feet depths to inches below the water.
Fish were abundant.
A favorite activity is shark wrestling. Spot a shark, shove your fist down it's mouth, and hang on.
Less dangerous pastimes are 'Fly Whacking' 'Leaping from the Spreader'..
Beachcombing was fun. Finding the perfect seashell was our only goal some days. Other days were spent reading or just looking at the water.
These clams grow inside the coral. No way to get them out without dynamite.
We found a farmer and his family selling watermelons on Rangiroa. Not a lot of selection of fruits and veggies on the atolls so these melons looked wonderful. Out came a pair of sunglasses and we took our melon home. It was delicious.
Ana got pretty good giving haircuts. No need to worry about cleaning up, just jump in the water and splash the transom clean. And Tom quickly learns how to dry out soaked cigarettes when he discovers the price for them here.
